Quick facts
A perfectly preserved Edo-period post town in the mountains. We walk part of the historic Nakasendo trail from Magome (8 km, mostly downhill, 2.5 to 3 hours) and stay overnight in a family-run minshuku. After the day-trippers leave, the village goes silent. Pure old Japan.
Hotels and ryokan we are considering. We will lock in and book together.
Seeded from what we already wrote. We will add, cut and reorder.
Locked in: the 8 km Nakasendo trail between Magome and Tsumago through forested mountains. Buses run between the two ends, so ride back whenever we are tired or short on time. The Magome to Tsumago direction is mostly downhill if we want it easier.
Family-run guesthouse, tatami rooms, home-cooked dinner. Most foreigners never experience this.
Once the buses leave at 5pm the village empties. Stone streets, lit lanterns, complete silence. The actual magic.
The village starts at the top of a ridge. The view back over the Kiso valley is stunning in autumn.
Authentic local places we want to eat, and room for more.
A loose plan, editable as we book things.
Arrive at Magome, walk the trail to Tsumago, check into the minshuku, kaiseki-style dinner.
Walk the empty stone street after the day-trippers leave. Early night.
Morning in the village, then the shinkansen via Nagoya to Tokyo.